
This man is a
god... one of may in my eyes. One of my very first memories of
Nick Knight's work that inspired me to, not only design but shoot, was Alexander McQueen's '
It's a Jungle Out There' presentation in 1997–a visit to H.G. Wells' '
The Island of Dr. Moreau'. The invitation was a black & white photograph by Nick Knight digitally manipulated to show a model with horns sprouting from a breast, and a hip and leg with furry ankles and cloven hoofs. At the time, Knight said in response to the notion that such manipulations are misogynistic,
"The current mainstream images portray women as so bland, as powerless victims in some way. These women are powerful. They're scary, in control.''After that, over the course of my 3-years living in London from 1997-99, I saw Knight continue to push the boundaries of photography, more often than not in collaboration with Alexander McQueen, shooting for The Face, Visionaire, Vogue–all provided important outlets for his work, and of course with i-D, a relationship that extends all the way back to 10 years as the publication's Picture Editor.
So too later, did Dazed & Confused, for whom his work has included a series of photos of women who have had mastectomies because of breast cancer, and Knight's 1997 editorial of a then curvaceous Sophie Dahl–inspired by his wife and agent, Charlotte Wheeler.
"I married Charlotte [Wheeler]; she's curvaceous, and I believed when I married her that she was the most beautiful woman in the world - that's why you marry someone. So I thought to myself, "Well, this is the truth so why can't I photograph women like that, why can't I work with a curvaceous aesthetic as opposed to the linear one that fashion tends to uphold?" It's this sort of figure of a woman that has been perceived as beautiful throughout the history of art, and so why are we not seeing it any more?".

Fashion-able, Dazed & Confused, Nick Knight, September 1999
In 1999, I met athlete and double amputee,
Aimee Mullins, (who modelled for McQueen in his spring-summer presentation entitled '
#13' on a pair of hand-carved wooden prosthetic legs made from solid ash). She was featured by Knight for the September issue of Dazed & Confused; it was a shoot entitled '
Fashion-able' in which a range of disabled people appeared as models, paired with and styled by a new emerging crop of British designers. Knight's large colour photo presented Mullins on the floor, her head in her hand in a defeated, melancholic position as a broken Victorian doll, wearing Alexander McQueen and Alexander McQueen for Givenchy Couture. Coming from Allentown, Pennsylvania, the world of British high fashion was
"different" for Mullins.
This year i-D turns 30, and in honor of their anniversary, Knight will shoot its next editorial project '100 Protraits' in front of a live audience, to be featured in the magazine's spring issue. The spread will feature numerous icons plucked from the worlds of fashion and music who have graced the magazine's pages over its 30-year life and will work as part of Knight's ongoing 'SHOWstudio: Fashion Revolution' exhibit at London's Somerset House, from today through December 20th when the exhibition is complete.
Day 1 featured East London post-punk/ rock art group, S.C.U.M, Cassius Eyewear fan and grime vocalist,
Tinchy Stryder and Florence and the Machine. Today we have confirmation of photographer Emma Summerton, fashion designer Giles Deacon, actor James Buckley, Joe and Duke Brooks, stylist and LOVE Editor-in-Chief Katie Grand and Ponystep's Editor Richard Mortimer.
Watch the live stream
here from 11:00 GMT or you can be a spectator in the flesh via two-way mirrors at the Somerset House Live SHOWstudio*.
[*Knight set up SHOWstudio in November 2000, an 'online fashion broadcasting company committed to pioneering, live fashion media'. The company brings together some of the world's most sought-after and influential artists, designers, photographers, writers, and cultural figures in experimental interactive films, projects and live performances. Knight recently turned down a renewal of his contract with American Vogue in order to spend more time with his family–and on the SHOWstudio project.]